Take It Easy

Mulling it over (Budapest Xmas Markets)

December 9, 2011 in Eats & Drinks, Hungarian Traditions, Life in Budapest, Take It Easy

In this archival edition of Budacast, Hungary’s online radio show and podcast: “Mulling it Over.”

Hear what happens when some intrepid expatriates weather the cold to bathe in the sights, smells and sounds of one of Budapest’s traditional outdoor Christmas markets.

A few years ago Maria Bredican and her friend Jennifer showed up at the Christmas market (Karácsonyi vásár) on Vörösmarty Square in Budapest. Their mission? To warm their bones in the tradition that is drinking “forralt bor” or mulled wine: cheap wine that is spiced up with cloves, cinnamon and orange peel and served hot, preferably in a mug.

Jennifer says she doesn’t shop at this market, but enjoys the “semblance of Christmas past” there.

“There are lots of smokestacks, cooking, lots of fatty foods, sausages. You can buy your vinyl wallets, plastic calendars, marionettes, other faux handicrafts at any one of these stalls. I love the Christmas lights, odd shapes up and down the trees. Not too many bells; no Santa Clauses. Nice atmosphere. Folks sort meandering slowly. It’s cold so I suppose most are at home or – worse – at the shopping mall.”

As they stand beside a ceramics stall, Maria, is excited over the mulled wine that you can buy at the market.

“Lots of people seem to be wandering around and mostly drinking wine,” she says, noting that it’s an excellent idea.

Take note that in this – the most touristy Christmas market in Budapest – a mug of mulled wine can get pretty pricey, especially when you have to fork up a “deposit” to use one of the ceramic mugs instead of a plastic cup.

“I think you actually get your money back if you bring it back,” says Maria.

Jennifer fires up her order of two foralt bor. Only red wine is available.

Their tab is 900 forints – about 4 euro (even 6 years ago when we made this podcast).

Jennifer gives a 100 forint tip.

“I didn’t realize that the wines are served in these big, old fashioned ceramic pots,” she says. “I thought it was just for looks, but I’m looking at this now and it’s on hot stones on a woodburning stove – most of them are – so I guess this would keep it at the perfect temperature, right?”

“Because you can’t boil this; if you boil it you lose all the alcohol?”

Maria remarks: “Oh, really? Cause I boiled one at home the other night.”

“You want to have a little alcohol,” says Jennifer. “Let’s try this.”

“I really need this,” Maria says.

Jenn: “My only complaint about the forralt bor is you usually get it in a plastic cup, so the heat just comes right through. So if you’ve forgotten your gloves – like you have – your fingers get a little too hot to carry it.

“I will tell you something about this market – this is all handicrafts and very Christmas like – there are several other markets around town, like at Jókai tér and Liszt Ferenc tér where you can buy sweatpants and knit hats and shoelaces. Here it’s all handicrafts.”

Maria replies: “That’s why people come here – it’s for the ‘kürtős kalács,’” referring to the sugary, spongey treat that’s shaped like a chimney and is prepared before one’s eyes on an open fire.

“The big donuts, cinnamon cake, but thin and tall. Like a cinnamon cone soft cookie.”

“You see queues of people waiting to eat this and nibbling away,” Maria says.

Jenn says it means “smokestack” or “chimney.”

They watch the kürtős kalács being made and offer their observations.

“It’s like the pizza places when I was a kid,” Jenn explains. “You could watch them make the dough.

“They’re rolling it out with one of those big wooden cylinders – and she has to answer her cellphone. Just like 100 years ago.

“If I didn’t know that these were sweet, I would think it was like a pizza dough or a bread. It looks toasty and warm; I’ve never seen it cooked over the hot coals like that.”

Maria asks some visitors if they know what it is.

“No, that’s why we’re trying it for the first time. It’s sweet with the taste of cinnamon. Do you want some?” she asks Maria.

“No, I think I’m going to get one myself,” she says.

A bit later, Jenn reports that the Hungarian purveyors at the market start to pack up for the night.

Maria says, “Looks like it’s time to leave and everybody’s getting cold.”

“There are a few diehards getting chestnuts. It’s a lovely crisp night. Are you in the Christmas spirit now, Maria?”

“Yeah, I’m a bit better. Not as grumpy as earlier.”

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

0